DIY Electrical Works - is it Worth it, and how does Part P Affect Me?

!: DIY Electrical Works - is it Worth it, and how does Part P Affect Me?

So what's changed?

Consider the dramatic increase over the last 10 to 15 years of electrical equipment in the home such as:

Bathrooms - low voltage lighting, electric showers, under-floor heating (popular in bathrooms with tiled floors).

Entertainment systems - computer systems, videos, televisions', (every child's bedroom seems to have a system nowadays).

Bedrooms - electric blankets, hair dryers, hair tongs.

Kitchens - dishwashers, tumble dryers, freezers, microwaves, blenders, sandwich makers.

Gardens - lawn mowers, hedge trimmers, pond pumps and lighting.

Is it any wonder, then, that each year on average there are 10 deaths, 750 serious injuries and 12,500 fires caused either by faulty electrical work carried out by ambitious DIY enthusiasts, "cowboy" electricians or deteriorating electrical installations?

As such, electrical work with a few minor exceptions carried out in the home is being regulated as part of the Building Regulations under Part P and is effective from the 1st of January 2005.

Failure to comply with Part P of the Building Regulations is a criminal offence and could result in the order by the local authority to remove or put right faulty workmanship and fine you up to £5000.00. It could also make it difficult to sell your property in the future.

Will anybody find out if I carry out some electrical work? I can say it was done before January 2005.

If the work involves the installation of cable you can be easily found out because since January 2005 the colours of the cores of the cable has changed. Live is now brown (previously red), neutral is now blue (previously black) and earth remains the same (green/yellow)

What is the scope of Part P?

·Dwellings

·Outbuildings, sheds, garages and greenhouses

·Garden lighting and power supplies (pond pumps etc.)

·Common areas in blocks of flats - stairways, laundries etc but not lifts

·Combined business premises and dwellings having a common supply (pubs, shops etc.)

How can I comply with Part P?

You will not need to notify the Building Control Officer to comply with Part P if you employ a contractor or an electrician who is accredited with a self certifying scheme (belongs to either the N.I.C.E.I.C, E.C.A or other accredited service scheme).

The accredited contractor or electrician will notify their accreditation service of the notifiable electrical work completed by the application of a form (normally done on the "Web"). The accreditation service will then notify the relevant Building Control Officer of all notifiable works carried out in his area (normally on a monthly basis) who will then inform you that he has the required notification.

You must receive from the contractor or electrician a Minor Works Certificate if the work entails a replacement part or an alteration of a circuit.

OR

An Electrical Installation Certificate if the works entail a complete installation in the case of a new build, a re-wire of a existing electrical installation, the addition of a new circuit, or a major alteration as in the case of replacing a fuse board.

The certificate must be sent to you within a reasonable time of the completed works - one month. The certification and any data must be kept safe, as this maybe required before any future works are carried out or will be required when you sell the property.

If you decide that you are competent or employ a person who is competent by either experience or formal qualifications and not engage an accredited contractor or electrician then you must inform the Building Control Officer before commencement of the work. The Building Control Officer will inspect the completed work.

Depending on the authority, the Building Control Officer will need a completed certificate as part of British Standard 7671 (I.E.E Regulations) and may insist upon an inspection by an accredited contractor or electrician who will supply a Periodic Inspection Report.

This will of course entail a charge for the inspection by the Building Control Officer, which, depending on the local authority can range from £50.00 for a minor notifiable job to several hundreds of pounds for a major notifiable job. If the Building Control Officer also insists upon an inspection by an accredited contractor or electrician with the supplying of a Periodic Inspection Report, this will also of course entail a charge.

In reality, most Building Control Officers are not qualified to inspect the work and as such, will try to dissuade you from carrying out the work; hence the disproportionate charges and the probable requirement of a Periodic Inspection Report. If you do carry out the work yourself and it is acceptable to your local authority, it remains to be seen whether will be acceptable when you come to sell your property.

Therefore, if you are trying to save money on the labour content of the work, it will probably be false economy.

If I do decide to carry out the work myself, can an accredited contractor or electrician certify the work for me, hence saving me the hassle and cost for the Building Control Officer?

No - An accredited contractor or electrician cannot certify work carried out by anybody else, as he cannot inspect the full extent of the wiring especially where it is hidden in the fabric of the building. The only thing he can provide is a Periodic Inspection Report - which is a formal inspection of the wiring system but does not include an inspection of wiring within the fabric of the building i.e. under floors etc. The Periodic Inspection Report is not a certificate. As such it will not comply with Part P although as above, some authorities may insist on one if you carry out the work yourself.

I want to replace a broken socket - are you saying I need to notify or employ somebody that is accredited (Government approved)?

No - for example you can replace existing accessories or replace a damaged cable with like (type and size).

The requirement of whether work is notifiable or not depends on the nature of the work and very importantly, its location. Location is important because some locations e.g. bathrooms, gardens and kitchens could have an increased shock risk!

The information below shows examples of what is notifiable and which is not. The list is not exhaustive and should the work required not fall into any of the categories below or you have any doubt I would strongly urge that you seek advice from a Building Control Officer or an accredited contractor or electrician.

You must be aware that the requirements of the Building Regulations apply to all work carried out irrespective of whether they are notifiable or not.

Areas within a kitchen, bathroom, garden or special location

NOTIFIABLE:
A complete new installation or rewiring
Installing a new circuit (eg, for socket outlets, lighting or shower)
Fitting and connecting a shower to an existing point
Replacing a fuse board
Adding a socket outlet to an existing circuit
Adding a lighting point to an existing circuit
Fitting a storage heater to an existing adjacent point
Installing a supply to a garden shed, garage or other outbuilding
Installing a lighting point or socket outlet in a garden shed, garage or other outbuilding
Installing a garden pond pump including the supply
Installing electric under floor or ceiling heating
Installing an electricity generator

NOT NOTIFIABLE:
Connecting a cooker to an existing connection unit
Replacing a damaged cable for a single circuit (cable to be the same size and type and installed as original)
Replacing a damaged accessory such as a light switch or socket outlet
Replacing a light fitting
Connecting an item of equipment to an existing adjacent connection point
Fitting a storage heater to an existing adjacent point
Replacing an immersion heater

Areas not in a kitchen, bathroom, garden or special location

NOTIFIABLE:
A complete new installation or rewiring
Installing a new circuit e.g. for socket outlets, lighting or shower
Replacing a fuse board
Installing a lighting point or socket outlet outdoors
Installing and fitting a storage heater including the circuit
Installing electric under floor or ceiling heating
Installing an electricity generator

NOT NOTIFIABLE:
Adding a socket outlet to an existing circuit
Adding a lighting point to an existing circuit
Connecting a cooker to an existing connection unit
Replacing a damaged cable for a single circuit (cable to be the same size and type and installed as original)
Replacing a damaged accessory such as a light switch or socket outlet
Replacing a light fitting
Connecting an item of equipment to an existing adjacent connection point
Fitting a storage heater to an existing adjacent point
Replacing an immersion heater

DIY Electrical Works - is it Worth it, and how does Part P Affect Me?

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HVAC Dehumidification Indoor Pools

!: HVAC Dehumidification Indoor Pools

Controlling Humidity in Natatoriums/Indoor Pools

How to get the PERFECT BALANCE of Water and Air from Building to Dehumidification

Much information has been distributed over the years regarding indoor pools, for "how" and "why" to properly control the humidity in an indoor pool. Questions arise as to what works and at what cost - from exhaust fans, exchanging outside air for indoor air (waste ventilation), opening windows, plug in basement style dehumidifiers, 100% Outside Air systems, to mechanical refrigeration based dehumidification systems. A pool room is like a pot of boiling water on a stove... the moist warm air coming off the pool in the form of evaporation rises and stratifies in the ceiling areas and walls of the pool room. Left uncontrolled, this 100% humidity eventually destroys all building materials and equipment, ceilings cave in, mold, rot, mildew occur.

Today's heat recovery refrigeration based dehumidification systems reduce this humidity to the recommended ASHRAE Guidelines of 50-60%, maintains temperatures, provides heating and cooling, and adds resource of free "reheat" to room and pool while in operation. In many cases, dehumidification is an afterthought or after moisture problems become apparent. In some cases equipment not appropriate to these types of structures is installed and in ashort time becomes apparent that it does not work to control the environment. Costs of preventing deterioration problems with pool rooms can be prevented in the design stage and are much less than the costs of repairs down the road. What we see today is a lack of knowledge in building envelopes, engineering, installation of dehumidification systems and the properly sized air delivery system installed to reduce humidity, and control the pool room environment 365 days/year.

Many companies have written articles that recommend utilizing expensive and unnecessary building materials, which in reality-- are neither "bullet proof" nor water proof against "mother nature's heat pump". An engineer who specialized in indoor pools and dehumidification once said "if it is a battle with water... water always wins".

In the past 30 years we've experienced indoor pools/natatoriums, manufactured enclosures that self destruct in less than 5 years- due first - to not taking the proper preventive measures in the design and building stages, and secondly, not installing the proper dehumidification environmental control system. There are several areas to cover as you are introduced to understanding the requirements of your indoor pool, the building and the dehumidification system required. Do not leave all of the research to architects/engineers, builders and HVAC firms to provide... most are not trained or schooled in either indoor pool buildings or dehumidification systems. They do the same research you must do. We often hear.... "We were never told about a vapor barrier"... "We were never told we needed a system"... "We were told we did not need a dehumidification system that we could use exhaust fans", "We thought we could use a plug in dehumidifier like the one in our basement".... all of these myths can easily be dispelled by little bit of research. Budget for dehumidification: Do it now at a lesser cost, or budget higher costs for tearing down, replacing drywall, windows and structural materials in less than 5 years. Often times the cost of a properly designed dehumidification system is less expensive than renovating the structure.

Sizing of a system is based on specific guidelines provided by ASHRAE (American Society of Heating & Refrigeration Engineers), ACCA, SMACNA and other consortiums in our industry. Under sizing and over sizing is common in this industry. This also may cause increased costs in operation. Along with your design requirements, all aspects are taken into consideration to design the properly sized system. Building requirements - Standard building materials can be used (vapor barriers, negative pressure, lighting, windows, mechanical space should be discussed with your consultant for your application). Certain products will hold up better than others in a high humidity envelope. Most companies do not have the knowledge to consult with you on the building side of the equation. You'll want to look for companies that provide consulting along with their design and dehumidification system. HVAC - the dehumidification system.

Many companies will tell you to buy a commercial grade dehumidifier, the lowest cost unit, with the lowest installation cost, buy a smaller unit that uses less electrical voltage than the standard, the lowest operating cost and to stay away from complex options. This is a bit misleading for several reasons: Dehumidification systems are sized today to accommodate all types of applications; there are residential projects with 5-50 Tons, and commercial projects with small 3 tons. Whether residential or commercial application, you want a dehumidifier that is built for your application, your evaporation rate, your air flow and your design requirements. When companies want you to install a "smaller" unit because it is less expensive, or it is a plug in style unit, your question should be to any manufacturer "does your system meet or exceed all ASHRAE Guidelines for Indoor Pools"?

Air Delivery (duct work). This is the most critical aspect of any installation. Great heart-bad arteries. Without ductwork, the heart (dehumidification) cannot work. Think of building a new home. As an owner, you would not install a furnace and an outdoor air conditioning system and then not attach it to the duct work system to move air flow at certain air turnover rates throughout the home. You would also not just run ductwork to your family room and skip the rest of the house if you want the entire home to be comfortable. Energy efficiency, least cost of operation, least cost of equipment, are based on numerous factors such as the size of your natatorium, your utility rates, using a pool cover, not over sizing or buying a smaller dehumidification system than your project requires, the refrigerant charge, the equipment design, your building, heat loss/heat gain, etc.

These are a few of the variables that must be taken into consideration. It is difficult for any manufacturer to guaranty the lowest operating cost of any system when "how you build" also affects the operating costs. The most effective way to reduce operating costs is to utilize a pool cover when the pool is not in use and maintain temperatures at the recommended levels. Secondly, look at your design; is it standard construction with insulated walls and ceilings, or is at all glass? Building design also leads to a reduction or increase in utility costs.

Environmental Pool Systems, Inc. is an expert in indoor pool humidity control. Our company provides consulting to the natatorium industry and has been building dehumidification systems since 1985. Feel free to browse http://www.dry-air.com, for additional building information, call Chris Leonetti at 800-514-7051 or email chris@dry-air.com for specific questions! We're here to ensure you will have a pool room that provides a healthy, stable, warm and dry environment for years to come!

HVAC Dehumidification Indoor Pools

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Ponds & Waterfalls - Layout & Excavation

!: Ponds & Waterfalls - Layout & Excavation

First of all: know what you want. If you need some ideas, visit the library or your local book store and browse through landscape books, garden and pond magazines. You can also search the web and read and study as much as possible.

Layout is the most important phase of the entire project. I have heard many complaints from disappointed clients after they had a chance to get used to their new addition to the landscape. "I only wish we had made it bigger... made it deeper... added an island... made it longer and constructed a bridge... built it closer to the house... installed a larger water pump for the waterfall... or... built the waterfall higher or wider."

Most of these wishes could have been granted for a reasonable cost before or during construction. But waiting until afterward means incurring a major expense that may be cost prohibitive. If your choice is to omit the item or feature because of its cost, then make structural preparations to allow for adding it on later. You can plan and design the landscape to allow for easy additions to the koi pond later just by the strategic placement of trees, sprinklers, drain lines, and much more.

When you decide exactly where you want to place the koi pond, take your time laying it out. A garden hose is popular for this job because it can easily be moved around until the desired shape is achieved. Once that is accomplished, you can use construction paint and spray the ground in the outline of the hose. If there is any doubt about where to locate the koi pond, give it a couple of days and ask for outside opinions. Then walk around the yard while you observe the proposed spot from various angles, especially views from inside your house, from the room where you spend most of your time.

Remember to take into consideration everything around it. How close is the nearest tree? Will its roots pose a problem later? Is there going to be sufficient sun throughout the day? Some water plants require more sun exposure than others, such as lilies. Make sure you know where the main power, water and sewer lines are routed to the house. It is not so good to find out after the fact that the gas or water line runs right through the center, 36 inches below the surface of a 48 inch deep koi pond.

Do not land-lock a section of your yard that may later need drains, sprinklers or heavy construction material. Place in advance or remove such items and install necessary drains and sprinklers. If it is not convenient to run the sprinklers at this time, run 4 inch drainpipe sleeves under the stream or section of pond to enable running low voltage wire and sprinkler lines later.

When it comes to the koi pond depth, if you plan to have it more than 18" deep, you will need to check with the local building codes to determine if a 6 foot perimeter fence is required. You may also need door alarms and self-closing gates at the side of the house. If the koi pond site is not level, do not worry about it; you will have all the excavated dirt from the pond to level out uneven terrain and get creative with terracing for an upper koi pond and waterfall or a sloped portion of the yard for a stream or creek.

A pond can be placed on the side of a hill by constructing a retaining wall to hold back portions of the hill. Drive a stake in the ground until the top of it represents the water surface of the koi pond. Continue with additional stakes in the shape of the proposed pond using a level as you go. Keep in mind how deep the koi pond should be and begin to remove the dirt. As you do so, note the condition of the soil and determine if you will need only shovels and a pick, or if you will have to rent a jackhammer. Also, if the soil is sandy and unstable, you may need to shore up the sides with plywood forms and supports prior to pouring concrete.

Most often the soil from a pond excavation can be used to create berms in the landscape plus mounding for a waterfall. If the koi pond is large the excavated dirt can be used to terrace a level back yard, facilitating a second, elevated koi pond. If there is no access to the back yard for a bobcat or excavator, additional soil will need to be removed by wheelbarrow and can be dumped into a rented trash bin or dumpster.

The most important stage of the water feature project is planning, not layout and excavation. If you have not planned and predesigned your waterfall and koi pond by now, file this article away until you do.

It has been a pleasure sharing with you. Until next time. Happy Koi, Peace & Joy.

Ponds & Waterfalls - Layout & Excavation

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MEDIUM Pond Kit - Complete for 16' X 16' Pond

!: Used MEDIUM Pond Kit - Complete for 16' X 16' Pond quickly

Rate : | Price : | Post Date : Nov 06, 2011 08:48:03
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The Easy Pro Medium Pond Kitsare a step above the small pond kits. They feature a medium filter (for increased filter capacity) and 2" flexible PVC pipe.These kits also come standard with EasyPro pumps!Shipping for Medium Pond Kits is by Truck Freight - cost will vary from 0-0 depending on weight. The trucking companies also add surchages for both residential delivery and using a liftgate to unload. Total cost, including shipping is indicated on the checkout page. We will contact you if the shipping is higher then what the shopping cart calculated.

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Choosing Pond Filtration Systems

!: Choosing Pond Filtration Systems

When you choose a pond filtration system, you may select one pump, or perhaps more than one pond pump - depending on your needs. Specific pond filtration systems are designed for specific kinds of ponds. There are many kinds of pond pumps. There are many different variables that you need to consider when you make your decision. All of the following questions are very important for you to ask when you are trying to decide:

Consider whether you want and / or need. Do you require flow pumps or pressure pumps, submersible or external pond pumps? You have to consider whether you want your pond pump to be standard or whether it should be low voltage . . . and there are many more things to consider. Do you need wet rotors? How do they compare versus magnetic rotors or direct drive rotors? Do you want one kind of head for your pond pump as opposed to another? And what is the difference between one kind and another kind? How do you know which pond filtration system is the highest quality for your specific needs? Of course, for many people, energy efficiency must also be taken into account.

The questions that have to be answered before you begin also concern tubing, as well as whether you need multiple or a single pump. Things such as finding the right size pump to accommodate your garden pond and specific landscaping needs are also very important. Sometimes, a garden pond can run simply on one pump with multiple accessories or, in other words, additional pieces of pond pump equipment.

When the pond you are creating to enhance the ambiance in the beauty of your home outdoors, you have to have the highest quality pond pump possible. The higher the quality is in the pond pump you choose, the less maintenance your pond will require, and the more beautiful your pond will look overall. Consult an unbiased expert, perhaps a friend or family member. If you can not get a good idea of what you need, it is the best idea for you to consult more than one professional about it.

Take into account the equipment itself and be familiar with how it functions, if you are not that sure you should take someone with you when you go out to make your purchase. Often, sales people in stores where you will buy your equipment are only somewhat helpful.

This is because sometimes the most expensive equipment is not the very best, but whether it is or not - when the cost is higher, so is the commission that a sales person will earn for the sale. There are many great deals for pond pumps on sale on the internet. Get the right advice. Know what you need, but, as you always should, try to spend less for the same high quality pond pump filtration systems and other kinds of pond pump equipment.

Choosing Pond Filtration Systems

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